Just a quick WIP of Ghost Ark #1 today. I'm still trying to decide whether or not I like the "old penny" paint scheme; it doesn't quite have that "fresh out of the sand" thing going for it. I may need to use some actual sand.....
I think the old penny scheme looks pretty great. It definatly struck me as something solid for Necrons and I have not seen one done that well on the edging yet.
Materials: Dwarf Bronze Shining Gold Tin Bitz A flat brush A foam pad, such as you would get from a pluck- foam model tray or any minis blister.
We're going to base coat the model in black, the dry brush it in Tin Bitz. Next, using the flat of the brush, you're going to go over every edge with the dwarf bronze. This takes a while, so put on some tunes and zen out.
The next step is going to be the gentle dry brushing of key raised areas using a 30/ 70 mix of Shining Gold and Dwarf Bronze. You'll be doing this by first cleaning away the bronze from your brush on the pad, then the gold, the two will basically doing a sort of wet blend in the foam, allowing you to renew the pigment on your brush for dry brush purposes while overloading the brush. Use a light touch, a dry brush away from the edge in light strokes. You're going for accent here, not full coverage. You'll periodically have to renew the pigment on the foam, but it'll retain the moisture for some time.
Using the foam pad this way is great for weathering tanks and other large models with broad areas, because after you get a good buildup on the foam, you can give your brush a rest and actually paint using the foam. It's really excellent for weathering.
@Balian: The troops start out at black. Then I dry brush them with Tin Bitz, then again with a 50/50 foam-palette mix of Boltgun Metal and Tin Bitz. My initial batch came out a bit too bright, so they ended up being darkened with a black wash. As a result, my warrior squads are all dark and oily looking. The rest of the army is a bit shinier, but I never touch them with mithril silver or even unmixed bolt gun metal. They're all grungy old machines, after all, and shouldn't look too new.
I'm thiiiiiiiiis close to stripping my Harpy models of the way-too-golden tint on their assorted carapaces and redoing them in old Penny. Especially if I'm going to build more to function as Night Scythes.
15 comments:
I think the old penny scheme looks pretty great. It definatly struck me as something solid for Necrons and I have not seen one done that well on the edging yet.
Stick with it. I think it looks awesome.
That looks amazing. If I were to do a necron army, that is exactly how I'd like it to look.
it goes with the rest of them, so i think it looks nice. however some variation between units would be helpful.
Even more so, it also goes with the Tyracrons, who will, of course, be filling in for various war machines I now don't need to buy.
As far as variation goes, there will be some, I think, especially for the one or two that will be reconfigurable into gunboats.
Can you give us a quick 5 second overview on how to achieve this look?
@Mathhammer: with or without pictures?
I personally can live without pictures.
I really, really like the old penny look, simply gogrgeous. I'll echo Mathhammer - I'd love the recipe or a walk through post, it's a great effect!
Can't wait to see what other horrors are in store!
'k then. Really, it's quite simple.
Materials:
Dwarf Bronze
Shining Gold
Tin Bitz
A flat brush
A foam pad, such as you would get from a pluck- foam model tray or any minis blister.
We're going to base coat the model in black, the dry brush it in Tin Bitz. Next, using the flat of the brush, you're going to go over every edge with the dwarf bronze. This takes a while, so put on some tunes and zen out.
The next step is going to be the gentle dry brushing of key raised areas using a 30/ 70 mix of Shining Gold and Dwarf Bronze. You'll be doing this by first cleaning away the bronze from your brush on the pad, then the gold, the two will basically doing a sort of wet blend in the foam, allowing you to renew the pigment on your brush for dry brush purposes while overloading the brush. Use a light touch, a dry brush away from the edge in light strokes. You're going for accent here, not full coverage. You'll periodically have to renew the pigment on the foam, but it'll retain the moisture for some time.
Using the foam pad this way is great for weathering tanks and other large models with broad areas, because after you get a good buildup on the foam, you can give your brush a rest and actually paint using the foam. It's really excellent for weathering.
Hope this helps!
Nice! I'll have to give that a shot. Never thought of using a bit of pluck foam as an impromptu palatte. Clever!
Thanks for the run-down!
Enjoy!
FYI, people; those spines at the bottom break really, really easily, do be careful with that engine section.
thanks for the quickie painting guide. It was different from the way I thought of starting out (tin blitz + washes)
I will try it out as soon as i can see straight. (I have caught pink eye/ sinus infection/ ear infection) so might be a week or so.
Hey man that looks amazing. did you do the same technique for your troops too? or are they silver?
@Balian: The troops start out at black. Then I dry brush them with Tin Bitz, then again with a 50/50 foam-palette mix of Boltgun Metal and Tin Bitz. My initial batch came out a bit too bright, so they ended up being darkened with a black wash. As a result, my warrior squads are all dark and oily looking. The rest of the army is a bit shinier, but I never touch them with mithril silver or even unmixed bolt gun metal. They're all grungy old machines, after all, and shouldn't look too new.
I'm thiiiiiiiiis close to stripping my Harpy models of the way-too-golden tint on their assorted carapaces and redoing them in old Penny. Especially if I'm going to build more to function as Night Scythes.
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